| Whether
you're a hobbyist, small custom shop or a mass production facility, there
are three steps that must be performed to take veneer from the raw form
to finished component.
1 -
JOINTING
2 -
SPLICING
3 -
PRESSING
JOINTING
(back
to top)
The goal
is to prepare the joint lines straight, parallel and square. Two
parallel cuts are made in the bundle with the grain. The joints must
be parallel so that when the veneer is laid up you do not have the fanning
effect. They must be straight in order to avoid gaps in the layup.
The edges must be square so that the joint line will be as nearly invisible
as possible. There must also be as clean a cut as possible with minimal
tearout.
Effects of poorly jointed
veneer
Unparallel
Joints
Joints that
are not straight create gap problems. If joint line is bowed in just
one millimeter, the result is a two millimeter gap when two sheets are
laid up. If the joint is bowed out one millimeter, the result is
a two millimeter gap at either end.
Fanning
If one end
of the 8 foot bundle is 5 inches wide and the other end is 5 1/8th inch,
you will have a gain of one inch over eight pieces. If the table
is a 16 piece, balanced match, the two inch gain will easily be recognized.
Unsquare veneer
edges
Jointing
with dull tooling or jointing the veneer improperly can leave a rounded
edge on the leaf being cut. When two leaves are placed together,
this forms a groove. This is either filled with putty or worse yet,
glue and the poor joint shows up at the finishing end.
Jointing Methods
Hand Tools
Everyday
hand tools like utility knives, surgical scalpels and Exacto knives can
produce fine joints when volume is not critical. If you're producing
custom jewelery boxes or doing low volume / high quality veneering, this
is more than adequate.
Veneer Saw
A veneer
saw is the entry level machine for low to medium volume veneering, less
than 14,000sq ft per day. The bundle is placed under a pneumatic
pressure beam. The veneer is aligned to the rear register and to
the selected depth and the pressure beam is lowered. A six inch circular
saw and a 3.5 inch milling head are drawn along the bundle at the same
time. The circular blade leaves about 5 millimeters of veneer exposed
outside the pressure beam. The milling head is about 15 inches behind
the circular blade. The milling head then takes off an additional
2 to 3 millimeters. The result is a straight joint with a 90 degree
edge and no tearout of the same quality as a guillotine.
Advantages
It can also
be used for cutting light metals, plexiglas, plastics, dimensional lumber
and core stock. This flexibility makes it the ideal machine due to
it's additional cutting capabilities. You can properly joint veneer and
have an extra saw in the shop.
Disadvantages
You can not
re-cut spliced panels to create pie and other fancy face rework.
The accumulated kerf loss shows up when you reassemble the veneer.
Consider a grade A face with nice cathedral (flame). If you want
to make a multi section pie table, the kerf loss of about 1/4 inch will
be lost along the cut. This skews the resulting sketch face as far
as the grain match is concerned. The minimum veneer width is 3/4 inch
Guillotine
Guillotines
are the ideal machine for jointing. They are easier to justify at
daily volumes of about 14,000sq ft of veneer per day. Shops doing
less veneer but higher quality work like sketch face, parquetry,
a lot of inlay, file and border work and re-sizing should consider a guillotine
over a veneer saw. Bundles are placed under a hydraulic pressure
beam. A light line indicates the cutting point. Once the operator
has the veneer correctly positioned, the pressure beam is activated and
the veneer is held tight at 100 bar pressure. After the pressure
beam is lowered, the operator can again inspect the cut point and then
activate the knife beam. You can cut a single sheet of veneer or
a three inch stack per cycle.
Advantages
One machine
with a proficient operator can joint up to about 50,000 sq ft per day.
You can also re-size panels for fancy face / sketch face work. You
can strip cut down to about 1/4 inch. This is beneficial for making
your own inlay pieces and filed and border work. For production facilities,
computers can be added for repetitive cut sequences. This eliminates
the potential for operator error.
Disadvantages
None
SPLICING
(back
to top)
The goal
here is to assemble your layup for further processing. All joints
must be tight and secure so that there is no movement during handling and
processing.
Veneer Tape
There are
two base weights in veneer tape, 34 gram and 40 gram. The 34 being
lighter and made of cellulose. The 40 gram is brown kraft paper and
heavier. Both styles are acid free and use vegetable adhesive.
Widths for each tape run from about 3/8th inches to 2.5 inches. The
tape can be plain with no holes, or have 2,3,4,5 or 6 holes across the
width.
FAQ's
Why
would I want 34 gram instead of 40 gram or vice versus?
This depends
on how much handling will the face get between the layup table and the
press. If it gets a lot of handling then the heavier bond is needed
in order to hold it together. The second thing to consider is the
species. Burls and species like anigre will need more secure bonds
due to the nature of the wood. It will want to flex and may have
a lot of tension in it. Therefore you need heavier tape.
Why would
I want holes in the tape?
This also
plays on the nature of the veneer and the handling. Additionally,
some craftsmen like the three hole tape because you can see the splice
line through the larger holes in the center of the tape. This allows
visual inspection of the joint quality while taping. Also, the more
holes you have, the less tape you have to remove after press. This
is highly desirable for those of us who do not have the big (and expensive)
five head veneer sanders.
What is the
most popular tape?
Without question
the best sellers are
34 gram,
3/4 inch wide, with two or three holes
40 gram,
3/4 inch wide, with two or three holes
I removed
the veneer tape and I can see where the veneer tape was. Why is this?
99% of the
time the problem is caused by one of the following four issues
1.
Species like cherry, walnut and beech oxidize when exposed to ultra violet
light. When working with these species be sure to turn them upside
down or cover them with canvas to block the light.
2.
Over saturation of the veneer tape with water. Excess water is drawn
into the veneer and affects the grain leaving a different characteristic
where the tape was.
3.
Hard water in parts of the country leaves mineral deposits in the grain.
Try using distilled water.
4.
A combination of the above.
Zig Zag
Splicing
Zig Zag splicers
splice the veneer on the back of the face. Jointed veneer is run
through the splicer along an alignment guide. Hot melt glue thread
is applied to the back side of the face. Immediately after the thread
is applied, it is compressed flat by compression rollers. The glue
thread is buried in the glue line, against the core, so there is no removal
process.
Feed speeds
vary from 20 to 147 feet per minute depending on the model. Throat
sizes range from 27 inches to 48 inches. A 27 inch throat can easily
make a 55 inch by 10 foot panel. All you need to do is save the center
splice for last.
Haug zig zag's
run on standard heat. There is no hot air required for operation.
Warm-up time is 3 to 5 minutes. The machine is powered by 220v, single
phase. The zig zag pattern width is adjustable. The veneer
thickness range is 1/10th to 1/42nd inches. Optional accessories
include a veneer tape applicator, footage counter and casters.
Advantages
Labor savings,
time and finishing / rework. A 4ft x 8ft panel of six inch components could
be spliced and in about five minutes. After it is pressed, it goes
right to finish sanding. Compared to a tape layup of perhaps 30 to
45 minutes, to press, and about an hour to remove the tape, then to finish
sanding. That extra 90 minutes of time can add up quickly.
Tape also generates the potential problem of adhesive showing up at the
finishing end. If so, the panel is either thrown away or stripped
and reworked. This is particularly frustrating when you are working
on a wall or cabinet of all sequenced matched panels.
Disadvantages
On thicknesses
of 1/42nd and thinner the glue thread can telegraph onto the face.
The glue thread has a very fine fiberglass thread which serves as reinforcement
along the zig zag glue line. This is a physical constraint with no
means around it. Curved work is also very limited as the joint is
an open joint. The veneer will spread (open) if wrapped for columns
or other similar type components.
Furniertechnik
LZM
Urea or PVA
glue is applied to the veneer prior to splicing. The veneer sheets
are run under 39-inch dual heated zone. The sheets are transported
via stainless steel chains. The chains are both pressurized and heated.
While under the chains, the glue is cured. This method of splicing
provides the highest quality, fully glued joints for a virtually invisible
splice line. This is the best splicing machine for any type face
you're making, curved, flat and multidimensional.
The chains,
via air pressure, compensate for buckled and wavy veneers. The stainless
steel chains leave no blue stain on red oak. The dual zone heaters
allow you to splice PVA glues easier.
For example
When splicing
with PVA's on a single zone, the adhesive is not fully cured and subject
to open or spreading after outfeed. They must be handled tenderly
to avoid putting stress on the splice line and having it open.
With dual
zone, you can run the first zone at about 210 degrees F and the latter
zone with no heat. The PVA is then activated in the first zone and
it is allowed to cure, while still under pressure and no heat, in the second
zone. At exit, you have a solid bond.
The Furniertechnik
LZM is the leader in state of the art solid glue line splicing. The
veneer thickness range is 1/10th inch to 1/64th. Feed speeds range
from 32 fpm to 131fpm. All bearings are sealed and self-lubricating,
reducing maintenance issues and eliminating fluid drip. Operating
temperature is up to 446ºF. The throat depth is 37, 47 and 55
inches.
PRESSING
(back
to top)
Methods to
bond the face to the core.
Vacuum Pressing
Vacuum pressing
allows you to press flat panel, radius and other relatively complex forms.
This expands your creativity and allows you to offer product quite a bit
different than your competitors. The components of a system are a
vacuum pump and a bag.
Pumps come
in two sizes, 5cfm and 10cfm machines. The 5cfm pump is 1/3hp and
can only extract from one bag at a time. The 10cfm pump is 3/4hp
and can draw from three bags with the aid of a manifold.
Vacuum bags
are made of either 30 mil vinyl or 30 mil polyurethane. Vinyl bags
are ok for a one time use, but for long term durability, go with the polyurethane.
For example, I can poke holes in the vinyl bag with a Bic pen with relative
ease. I can not poke holes in the poly bag no matter how hard I force
the pen. Sizes range from 4' x 4' on up to 5' x 12'. We can
have the bags open on the short side or the long side, which ever you prefer.
Loading 12 foot bags from the short side can be quite difficult.
Laminating
bags are also available. These bags are for creating arch top for
windows and doors or for long stair stringers and even spiral staircases.
The largest standard laminating bag is 20 inches by 21 feet long with custom
sizes available.
Always, purchase
the largest size bag you can right off the bat. There is nothing
worse than buying a 4x8 bag and then being awarded a 4 x 10 panel project.
The difference in price between the 4x8 and 4x10 is about $60.00.
In this example you would have had to buy another bag at about 500.00 to
do the job. Get the capacity right from the start.
If you intend
on always doing flat panel jobs or small profile work, then a flip top
system is worth investigating. Looking much like a screen door frame,
the lid is hinged at the rear. A neoprene gasket serves as the seal
around the platen. This is a very easy one person load and unload.
Hot Press
Presses come
in nearly every size, shape, color, heating medium, and pressure that you
can think of, in addition to a myriad of bell and whistles.
What you have
to ask yourself is:
What is the
largest size that I will need? To determine capacity
How often
will I be using the press? To determine heating medium
What am I
pressing? (veneers, laminates) To determine pressure
What adhesives
will I be pressing with? To determine temperature
What cycle
time do I need? Determines pressure and temperature
Do I have
physical constraints? Overall footprint or weight constants
Considerations
If 95% of
your needs are 4x8, then you have a few choices. Spend the extra
money for the 5x10 or you can buy the 4x8 and step press or simply sub
out anything larger.
If you're
pressing a few hours a day then electrical heating makes the most sense
from an energy usage perspective. If you're pressing full time then
you would want to go with thermal oil or super heated water. These
can be heated several ways depending on the costs of energy in your area.
Oil and water systems can be fired either by electric or natural gas.
Hot pressing
veneer requires a minimum of 30PSI, vacuum bags operate at 12 to 13psi
maximum. This is needed due to the platen tolerance of +/- 2mm.
The extra pressure "crushes" the veneer and really drives the adhesive
into the grain for a great bond.
Urea and PVA's
are pressed in the 190 to 210F range. If you plan on or expect to
be pressing with dri glue film, you need a minimum of 280F, and higher
pressures. Build in about 25% excess heat capacity so that when the
press is turned on, it is not at 100% power. This costs fractions
more initially than burning out platens from full time, full power operations.
Cycle time
for most hot presses will be in the 3 to 5 minute range. Cycle time
is dependent on the thickness of the veneer, adhesive, core dimension and
temperature. Rule of thumb: Higher pressure and temperature reduce
cycle time for simple face and back pressing. Creating you own 5
or 7 ply can increase cycle time to perhaps 6 or 7 minutes. The extra
time is needed for heat to penetrate to the core.
Hydraulic
Cylinders
How large
are the cylinders?
This leads
to the pressure that the cylinder is under and it's over all longevity.
The larger the cylinder, the heavier it is made and longer life it will
have. Generally, it is also indicative of over all system pressure.
How many cylinders
does it have?
A 4 x 8 foot
press should have at least six cylinders. A 5 x 10 press should
have at least 8 cylinders. Yes there are presses on the market with
four so just consider the following;
On a 4' x
8' press with four cylinders, on the long side, the cylinders are 33 inches
on center. That is quite a distance when it comes to maintaining even pressures.
If a panel spans cylinder to cylinder, the center of the panel may not
have the same pressure as the part of the panel that is directly over the
cylinder. If a panel is placed between cylinders, the platens could
close and become damaged and bowed. A new 4x8 foot platen is about
7,000.00 not installed.
With six cylinders,
the on center distance is 24 inches and more consistent pressure is maintained
across the face of the layup.
Look at the
framing construction. The heavier the construction, the long life
cycle of the machine. As in any machine, light weight construction
of a machine exerting 80 tons of pressure or higher, will affect the structure
over time unless it is built heavy. Is it angle iron or I-beam construction?
Is it 4 inch or 10 inch? How many I-beams are across the top and
bottom of the main frame? Are the uprights made of four inch or ten
inch angle iron or I-Beams
Highly Recommended
Options
Rack and
pinion gearing.
This ensures
the platens close parallel to prevent damage. If it closes out of
parallel due to pressure loss or incorrect loading, a limit switch is tripped
and the platens open. This is on average an $800.00 insurance investment
versus the need for a $7000.00 platen or worse yet two of them.
Anodized platens
The platens
are gold anodized. The aluminum platens are by nature soft.
The process hardens them. They are much less subject to damage from
loading (sliding instead of placing layups) and from glue cleaning.
Shops that do not use ACMOS have to scrape the glue off the platens.
Usually using scrapers like putty knifes. ACMOS is to platens as
Pam is to your frying pan. ACMOS prevents the glue from drying to
the platens. At the end of the day you simply take an air hose and
blow off the glue. This is much faster, saves time and is less invasive
than scraping.
Article Copyright
1999 John Ersing, Veneer Systems Inc.
(back
to top)
VENEER PROCESSING
by John Van
Brussel & John Ersing
Veneer Systems
Inc.
www.veneersystems.com
Tel: 800-825-0840
Email: jvanbrus@veneersystems.com |